Why a Boston Bartender Chose a Life in Chengdu

Lappen’s trajectory shifted in 2015 when he arrived in China for an education consultancy role. He eventually pivoted to hospitality, moving to Shanghai before the pandemic prompted a temporary return to Boston. There, he opened a baijiu-focused bar, using the venture as a testing ground. However, the experience of living stateside only underscored his preference for the lifestyle he had cultivated abroad, specifically the social warmth and the access to rural reservoirs in the southwest.

By 2023, Lappen was back in China, eventually launching the Sugarcane Society in Chengdu with two partners. The tiki-themed rum bar cost less than $10,000 to establish, though its tucked-away location requires a heavy reliance on social media to attract enthusiasts. Beyond the bar, Lappen is driven by a desire to challenge Western perceptions of Chinese quality. He champions local producers, from the natural wines of the XiaoPu winery to craft breweries like TripSmith and Wild West Brewing. By integrating these domestic goods into his business, he aims to bridge the cultural gap, proving that his professional evolution was not just possible, but uniquely suited to the environment he chose.